Fremont County, Colorado - Plate #1

A pure Palladium print from a dry collodion negative.

Fremont County, Colorado - Plate #1

This is an iPhone snap of the print in the wash water. It’s a beautiful negative and makes a wonderful print.

Platinum Palladium Prints from Dry Collodion Negatives

I really enjoy making negatives and printing. In the collodion world, it’s easy to get swept up in the simple direct positives (Ambrotype and Tintypes) and never pursue the “real” thing. A lot of it is the “wow” factor. When you’re doing public demonstrations, workshops, or just making Ambrotypes and Tintypes on your own, you and/or the people you’re “performing” for, get to see the positive reveal itself in the fix. It’s fun, and there are always “oohs” and “ahhs” in a crowd. The positive process is simple, easy, and relatively inexpensive. After 20 years of doing that and only making negatives on the side, I wanted to move on. My heart and my desire have always been with the negative and the print.

There’s so much more information in a negative. Positives can’t capture nearly as much. In reality, a positive is a very underexposed negative and it is under-developed too. Underexposing by definition means that you are lacking information. Chemically speaking, a positive contains very little density or information. And above all of it is the fact that you can make many prints (and some different kinds too). You have so many options for toning, color, texture (type of paper), and just overall more flexibility with negatives.

I’ve made wet collodion negatives since 2004, but not like what I’m doing now. My full attention is directed toward one goal; making the finest negative I can and the most revealing print (s) possible. It’s exciting to explore the possibilities. I am limiting myself to wet and dry collodion plates and prints in the siderotype family. I’ll more than likely make all of this work in Collodion Dry Plate and print with Platinum Palladium, Kallitypes, and maybe Argyrotypes. I’m experimenting with all of them. I’ve just ordered the chemistry for the Argyrotypes. My friend in Argentina turned me onto it - thanks, Pablo. I’ll post some prints in the next few days. It’s a process created by Mike Ware. The two guys that did the POP Platinum - Ware and Malde. Really great stuff!

I apologize about the iPhone photo, but you get the idea. This is a Platinum Palladium (mostly Palladium) print from a dry collodion negative.

I apologize about the iPhone photo, but you get the idea. This is a Platinum Palladium (mostly Palladium) print from a dry collodion negative.

Gum Over Palladium from Collodion Negative

I’m juggling a lot of processes and experiments. It’s a lot of fun. I am so grateful that I can do this full-time. I used to struggle with fitting in my “technical experiments” between jobs. No more. Amazing what you can accomplish when you are left alone with old books, chemicals, and a camera. What’s not to love.

Here, I’m exploring another important part of my project. I want to give a very subtle color to my prints. Red is the color I’m after. The Utes called this area, “Red Mother Earth” - actually going through Black Canyon, they passed massive red rock outcroppings. The Garden of the Gods is all red too.

So, how do I accomplish this? Easy; Gum Over Palladium, Platinum, etc., etc. You can add as many “layers” as you want. I use transparent pigment (Red Oxide in this case) so it gives a hint of color but also depth. I’m after both.

It’s quite simple to do. Mix the gum arabic, pigment, and dichromate up, roll it on the print, let it dry, register the negative again, expose it - 80% to 100% of the original time, depending on what you’re going for and then wash away the dichromates and gum (where it was blocked).

This is a Platinum Palladium Print on Revere Platinum paper pre-gum over application.

This is a Platinum Palladium Print on Revere Platinum paper post-gum over application.

The Studio Q Show Saturday March 19, 2022 at 1000 MST

For the past couple of months, I’ve taken a break from the Saturday show. I needed time to work on testing several dry plate processes for my project. I’ve gathered enough information now, I’d like to share some of it with you if you are interested. I know that most people aren’t, and that’s okay.

This coming Saturday, March 19, 2022, at 1000 MST I’ll be broadcasting live to talk about what I’ve been doing for the last two months. I’ll share some tests from my dry plate experiments and talk about siderotype prints. I’ll share what I’ve discovered and what my approach will be for my work. If you’re interested in the (collodion) dry plate processes and siderotype printing, be sure to join us.

My Chamonix 10x10 camera holding its own in Guffey canyon. Making a 5-minute exposure of the valley floor and rock structures.

The negative that was made hanging off the cliff (or almost).

I Think I'm There! Dry Collodion Negatives and Siderotype Prints

Although this is just beginning, I feel like I’ve found the negative making process I want to use for my project. It’s been almost a year since I started researching the (collodion) dry plate processes. I’ve made several Tannin plates in the past, and I’ve even taught the process at the end of wet plate workshops. I knew what they could do and what their limitations were. I wanted to find a way to overcome the shortcomings of the dry plate process and produce “perfect” negatives for printing with the siderotype printing processes.

Each dry plate process method has its advantages and disadvantages. What I’ve tried to do is a hybrid method, if you will, of the best collodion dry plate methods of the 19th century. I tweaked the collodion and tweaked the development method. I am using albumen, (slightly) bromo-iodized collodion, and gallic acid. My methods are a bit different than what the old books talk about and have made negatives that fall into the 1.4 - 1.8 density range. Full of information!

I realize that I’m not going to get “speed” over quality. I’m still experimenting with some ISO enhancers, but for me, making a dry plate negative, that will print well, will be at least a minute exposure or longer. I’m not as concerned with that as I am with the quality of the negative, A combination of Sutton and Mudd (authors of the Collodio-Albumen Dry Plate and the Dry Collodion (Tannin) modified method, will get me there. I’ve made a collodion that seems to capture both the information and the density needed. I’m using a pre-development method that is amazing! The key is the development and correct exposure. That is an obvious statement but the trick is knowing how to get the negative you want without pushing or pulling the process.

I’ve successfully completed what I was after. In the next few days, I’m putting it to a real test - I’m going to hike back into a cove, called Paradise Cove (see photo), not far from our property, and make the first real attempt at a photo for my project. I may have to go back later in the Spring, but I’ll revisit the places as many times as I need to get the negative I want. It’s a 45-minute hike into the area where the cove is located and I need to time it for the light. It will be a challenge, no doubt, but I’m up for that!

This is a Platinum Palladium print (mostly Palladium) - my negative may be a little too dense for this process. I’m going to make a toned Kallitype with this negative and see if I can improve it a little bit.

Paradise Cove - the place where I’ll run my first “real” dry plate test. I’m hoping to get some mind-twisting plates from these places around me.

Platinum Toned Kallitype

This print dried down and turned out amazing! I cannot believe that this is a Kallitype print! Yes, I did platinum tone it, but wow! Amazing stuff.

If you had this in your hand, you'd be challenged to tell me that it's not a Platinum Palladium print. These tests are really blowing my mind!

Zoom in on that bad boy!!! Wow!

Kallitype Prints: Adjusting Color

I really like the “red” from the iron and citric acid in the Kallitype prints. I’ve printed a few of these now and am really liking the “look and feel”. When you tone them (with platinum, palladium, or gold), you can stop the toning at any “color” you want (or any red color, I should say). This print has a nice color to my eye. I know it doesn’t translate online, but you can at least see the “red” tone here. I’m after that color in my new work.

This print is one from the Ghost Dance work. I never printed it or published it. It’s of the massacre site on the eastern plains of Colorado. The Battle of Arikaree Fork or Battle of Beecher Island, 1868. This is what’s left of the river.

Here’s an old photo of the same place, many moons ago. The site of the 1868 Battle of Beecher Island — as it appeared in 1917. Located in Yuma County, northeastern Colorado. The Arickaree flows near the camp. The south channel of the Arickaree has closed up, owing to the stream's sifting silt depositions.

Platinum Toned Kallitype - Wet Collodion Negative

This is the print with a 5-minute platinum tone. The exposure was 4 minutes (overcast sky) and 8 minutes of developing time. As you can see, I used 12 drops of 20% Ferric Oxalate, 12 drops of AgNO3, and 2 drops of Tween. The platinum toner I used was 10 drops of 20% platinum, 10 g citric acid, and 1000 m DH2O.

I wanted to see what some of my negatives look like printed out with the Kallitype process. If you make Platinum Palladium prints, Kallitypes are easy.

Rather than using platinum and palladium salts, you use silver nitrate. The ferric oxalate is the base and the silver nitrate is the compound that is reduced to silver.

I love the red color, I wish I could keep it in that stage. Some of my next experiments will be doing a gum over with the red oxide pigment. I could do a gum over Kallitype here - maybe I will. I’m still knee-deep in the dry plate experiments and want to continue with that before Spring gets here. I hope to be ready to get on the road in May.

Platinum Palladium Print From Collodio-Albumen Dry Plate

Here’s something that I’ve never seen before: A platinum palladium print from a collodio-albumen dry plate negative. I’m not sure when the last collodio-albumen dry plate negative was made, but I would be willing to bet that there hasn’t been one made in 150 - 160 years. Let me know if you’ve made any.

No, it’s not the best technical negative (see the chemistry stain?), nor is it really even interesting (the picture), but it is significant in the sense of bringing a “dead” process back to life in the 21st century. “It can be done” is the most exciting thing and it’s encouraging.

My dry plate work has just begun. I’ve had much better results in my testing after this was made. I’m trying to test three different types/styles of dry plate - no gelatin - only collodion or collodion and albumen. Stay tuned to see what I end up using for my project this year.

Platinum Palladium print from a Collodio-Albumen Dry Plate Negative - 6 minutes at f/11 - Dallmeyer 3B

Backpacking and Making Dry Plate Images

We got out in the nice weather today and made a couple of Collodio-Albumen Dry Plates. It was a lot of fun. When you have 12 acres you can hike around on, it makes for easy access to things. Although, you couldn’t get a camera and all of the gear you need without a camera backpack. The F64 backpack works great. It holds my Chamonix 10x10 camera, two vintages lenses, lens board, loupe, stopwatch, dark cloth and a loaded plate holder. I can fasten the tripod on it too.

Working my way through the processes. This was a great exercise in understanding exposure times, development times, and general workflow. Jeanne came with me and carried a loaded plate holder and assisted me with the set up. Looking forward to doing this all spring and summer!

Me and my F64 camera backpack - it works great for hiking around in the rocks and mountains. I’m carrying all of the gear - a 10x10 camera. lenses, etc. Photo by Jeanne Jacobson.

Making the exposure of a rock that looks like a dolphin. 4.5 minutes at f/6 - about a 7 minute development. Photo by Jeanne Jacobson

“Log and Rocks” Collodio-Albumen Dry plate. 5 minutes at f/8

Log and Rocks - scanned, desaturated and inverted.